Inside Oaxaca’s Historic Istmo Tradition
On my recent trip to Oaxaca, Mexico, I had the privilege of experiencing one of the most important festivals in the region, thanks to my dear friend Ada, who’s from a small village. El Itzmo de Tehuantepec Oaxaca is divided into eight distinct regions, each with its own unique culture, traditions, and products.
The festival is a celebration where all these regions come together to share what they produce—things like handmade crafts, textiles, harvests, and traditional foods. Initially, it was a means for areas to trade goods, but over time, it has become a massive cultural event where they proudly display and give away what they make to visitors and to one another.
The celebration dates back to 1932, but in 1986, the government became involved to help promote tourism and support the regions. Today, it’s more organized and widely attended, but the heart of it remains about sharing traditions and strengthening community ties.
In my friend Ada’s region, traditional, beautiful dresses are an integral part of life. There are specific dresses for every occasion—funerals, daily wear, and grand galas—each with different patterns and embroidery, ranging from simple to very elaborate. The region is also known for its mango harvest, which is exported internationally, especially to Canada.
We saw a performance in the theater Macedonia Alcala called Splendor del Itzmo, which told the story of these dresses and their evolution over time. It was fascinating to learn how much meaning and history are woven into the fabric of the clothing. One of the central events is the vela, a type of celebration unique to the Itzmo region. La Vela/gala can be religious, honoring saints, or dedicated to things like the mango harvest. In Ada’s town, there’s also a very special tradition of celebrating the muxes—people who are born gay and are highly respected in the community. Families are proud to have muxes because they often become lifelong caregivers for the elderly and play essential roles in both family and community life.
The culture in Ada’s region is matriarchal; women are the primary decision-makers and leaders. It’s common to see women running businesses, working in markets, and handling finances, while men may take on more domestic or relaxed roles.
One of the most memorable parts of preparing for a vela is the dressing ritual. Women wear intricate, hand-embroidered dresses, style their hair perfectly, add fresh flowers, and adorn themselves with gold jewelry. A high-quality dress can cost tens of thousands of pesos, and a beautiful gold necklace might be a significant investment, but these items are treasured and worn with pride. Showing up well-dressed isn’t just about appearance—it’s about honoring tradition and respecting your roots.
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